Nicaragua - Country full of vulcanoes

With a Tica bus I cross the border into Nicaragua, it is very easy since the same bus I board in San Jose drops me off in Rivas 10 hours later. The atmosphere is totally different in Nicaragua compared to Costa Rica. Horse and wagon is a common way of transportation and you can see clearly that people are struggling to make a living. Walking through Rivas to get some cash and food I feel like a moviestar, they do not see many tourists here. I stay at Hostel Julieta which is run by Mike (80) and his daughter Julieta, a very welcoming place with loads of travel support. The little white dog Nico and I are big friends from the start :-) Unfortunately I cannot take him with me the next day to Isla Ometepe...

With two other guests I share a taxi to San Jorge. A very old ferry is loaded with big trucks and we are handed life jackets which does not seem an unecessary precaution with the hard wind and quite high waves... Luckily we reach Isla Ometepe in one piece and have beautiful views of the two vulcanoes (Volcan Maderas and Volcan Conception) on the island (the only time I see them without clouds surrounding the top). I stay in Moyogalpa in the family Hostel Casa Mauro with the most sweetest mother who gives me a big hug every time she sees me and free coffee. For only 5 USD I have a dorm bed and for 3 out of 4 nights there are no other guests. Nice for me but not so nice for the family... Times are hard and tourism is still very slow. I rent a scooter for three days and after receiving a lesson in scooter driving on a small green field I am qualified to drive around the island :-) I first visit Punta Jesus Maria where there is an outside church service ongoing (it is Sunday). The black beach runs into the ocean and at night (I later return) the sunset is beautiful. On my way to Parque Ecologico Charco Verde I am chased by an agressive dog, I am probably driving too slow... After speeding up and some screaming (which makes the local people laugh) I manage to shake it of... I am the only visitor in the park for the first hour and it is really beautiful with all the monkeys, birds and the beach with a view of Volcan Maderas. Afterwards it is time for a swim and I drive south to Ojo de Agua, a natural pool, where it is very busy with local families. The water is crystal clear and really wonderful on this hot day so I spend the rest of the afternoon here chatting with a nice couple from the Netherlands with whom I share quite an identical story. I drive back to Moyogalpa (around 30 km) at the end of the afternoon taking a different route and unexpectedly end up on an unpaved road... With my petrol on zero and my limited experience in driving a scooter I spend an exciting hour on this dirt road but reach Moyogalpa in one piece. When filling up with petrol I discover the meter is broken. The next day I drive further south and visit the popular beaches Playa Santo Domingo and Playa San Fernando. Though there are many hostels here, it is really quiet. On my way back I stop again at Ojo de Agua which is more comfortable for swimming than the hot lava beaches. I spend my last day at Punta Jesus Maria reading a book. The tranquility of the island makes me very lazy ;-) After a last warm hug from my stand-in-mother of the past few days, the son (Mauro) gives me a lift to the ferry with his scooter. After the ferry I continue in a chickenbuses to Granada, all is easy and quick.

Granada is a colonial little city and I feel at home immediately. There are also more tourists here. Hostel Boca en el Boca is beatiful and I meet Yvonne from Switzerland when we get a free welcome drink. Breakfast is included and consists of pancakes you can bake yourself. It is interesting to see how different the pancakes look while we all use the same tools and materials ;-)
It is warm in Granada and I slowly explore the town. After almost 5 months it is time to cut my hair again, it only costs 100 Cordoba (3,50 euro) and she finishes in 3 minutes. As well in costs as in time a totally different experience than in Amsterdam! Since running is a bit impossible due to the heat and also from a cultural point of few, I attend a surprisingly good yoga lesson with a group from the hostel.
The main attraction near Granada is the Masaya Volcano. Unexpected this visit does not require any physical activity since the car drives up to the edge of the crater. A very impressive volcano and the most active one in Central America. When the sun has set you can see the lava moving down in the crater just 10 meters under your feet!
When exploring Granada on my own in the early morning I accidently end up in a small cigar factory. I am invited in and get an explanation and demonstration how cigars are made. It reminds me of my father who would have loved such an original handmade cigar. After a picture with a huge cigar and a hug with the puppy dog it is time to leave the factory. Next stop is the impressive cementary where all the ridge and famous of Granada are burried. When I want to explore the side I am stopped, unfortunately it is not safe to run around on the cementary since there is a chance I might get robbed...
The last few months I have been reading quite a lot of books and every time it is surpising what you find in the hostels for books that are offered for exchange. It makes me read stuff that I otherwise would never touch. In Granada I read a novel of Ilja Gort (a Dutch writer that also makes programs on wine for dutch television), De Vrouwenslagerij (free translation: the womens butcher shop), very interesting and entertaining! So if you are Dutch, I can recommend ;-)

With a shuttle I leave Granada for Laguna de Apoyo, a small crater lake only 20 km from Granada. I stay at Hostel Paradiso with a small vulcanic beach. I spend most of the day with an air tire in the lake floating around and chatting with all the day visitors. Since there is no kitchen for guests all is catered and I enjoy 2 days of this luxioury. After meeting many interesting people, some kayaking and a lot of relaxing I leave with a shuttle for Leon.

Leon is hot, really hot! Hottest month of the year...Therefore I am extra happy to stay in my first dorm with an airconditioner :-) Hostel Poco a Poco is owned by a dutch couple and really nice. The luxurious supermarket around the corner is heaven! They have so many products and I buy food for the next few days. Leon is beautiful with many nice churches. Especially the white cathedral in the center is exceptional and the visit to the rooftop for a few dollars is amazing. The Museo Combatientes Historicos de la Revolucion Popular Sandinista is something I will always remember. It is not the exposition that excists of old pictures and is dusty or the building that is almost falling apart, it is the guide Franciso that explains the political history of Nicaragua and his own life as a participant in the Sandinista Revolution. When he takes us up to the roof for some nice views of Leon I wonder whether we should spread the weight since there are some holes in the roof as well. According Francisco all is fine and there are no problems ;-)
I meet Yvonne again in Leon. She had an accident with a scooter on Isla Ometepe but is luckily okay and can join the hike of the Telica vulcano. It is only a short hike up to this active vulcano but it is a different world! At the top of the vulcano a man is selling cold beers, I wonder how much he makes with the low amount of tourists arriving here... The beer is delicious and completes the magnificent sunset over the row of vulcanoes in the distance.

After these nice days in Leon where I had to buy a new mobile phone, had lunch at the Mc Donalds twice for their airconditioning and enjoyed delicious coffees at Manana Manana, I leave with Yvonne for Las Penitas at the coast. Only 20 km but with the chickenbus waiting to be filled up and stopping at every cornerstone, we easily take 1,5 hours to reach our destination. It is all the fun of travelling!
The ecological Hostel Mano Mano is beautiful and right at the ocean. The waves are so high and the current is extremely strong so I do not go further than knee-deep and prefer the outside showers to cool down. On Sunday the beach is crowded with Nicaraguan families and shows again how important family is in Central and South American culture. After 1 night Yvonne returns to Leon and we say goodbye after a great time and to meet again in the future. Luckily I still have the nice company of Maria and Fabian from Germany and even can borrow some nailpolish for my toes :-)

Currently I am in Esteli, a half day trip form Las Penitas and a quiet town with few tourists. Posada Cuscatleca has only 2 other guests and I enjoy my single room after all the dormitories. Tomorrow I am going to visit the Reserva Natural Miraflor with the non-profit organization Tree Huggers. I will meet my guide at the end of the busline and have an overnight stay with a family. Apparently it is cold in the mountains and it is raining sometimes. You can imagine that after all the heat I am even looking forward to that! Will let you know how it was in my next travel blog!
Two more months before I fly home from San Jose in Costa Rica, time is passing by very quickly lately and my travel pace is really slow and relaxt if I compare it to the start of my journey. I enjoy the Central/South American culture and am looking forward to the 2 months ahead in Nicaragua and Costa Rica but also already very much look forward to going home and see my mother, family and friends again. Being away for such a long time made me realise what is really important in life and how easy it is to life without many things we surround ourselfs with in normal life.

Hope you liked the blog. Until next time! Hasta luego y abrazos!